Waltons x Firestone EPDM RubberCover Roofing Installation

Waltons x Firestone EPDM RubberCover Roofing Installation

EPDM roofing is a synthetic rubber compound
which can be used to cover a variety of buildings and roof styles. It’s highly flexible, suitable for apex, pent
and flat roofs and is a fully adhered system, maning that it does not require flame to fit. It creates a waterproof barrier and is extremely
durable, protecting your roof with a life expectancy of up to 50 years! To install this rubber roofing system you
will need: An electric screwdriver, a long handled roller,
a long handled brush, a hand saw, a hammer, a stanley knife or cutting tool, a tape measure,
a step ladder, and a seam roller. We would recommend that you use gloves when
dealing with any kind of adhesive. There are several different methods you can
use to secure the EPDM roofing to the edge of your building. In this video we are going
to show you how to install both the plastic capping and edging, as well as how to secure
the roofing with timber batons and fascias for a more natural look. Begin by placing 2” x 2” batons underneath
the edge of the roof and securing in place using screws down through the roof boards. Always make sure that the screws are counter-sunk
to prevent the rubber snagging on the heads. Place the first length of drip trim against
the batons, placing it 5mm below the edge of the roof, again making sure that your screws
are counter sunk. When aligning the second strip up against
the first, allow a 5mm gap between the two. This gives the plastic room to expand and
contract with the change in temperature through the year. This gap will be covered by the rubber and
extra capping. If you are doing this method for the entire cabin you will need to do the
exact same thing on the rear of the cabin too. You can now start to lay out the rubber roofing. Lay one edge out so that it overhangs the
building by a good 12 inches. Then you can just pull the rest of it out to cover the
roof. Trim off any large excess so that you are
left with a sheet that is easier to deal with. As this cabin has an apex roof, fold back
the apex edges so that you can easily pull it back from the roof, allowing you to glue
underneath. Pull the rubber back half way along the apex
of the roof. Smoothing out any folds or wrinkles. Then fold back roughly 1 foot more so you
can ensure that you are not going to be left with any dry spots. Open up the glue and begin to tip it out in
even spots along the roof, taking care not to put it too close to the edge of the roof. Glue is not a contact adhesive, just have
to make sure that there is a decent amount on the wood side. If it is too close to the edge when you roll
it, you’re going to push glue off the roof. For large areas roll through the glue with
a long handled roller, spreading a thin layer across the length of the roof. You want to put enough glue on so that it
divides evenly between the wood and the rubber, too little and it’s not going to stick properly,
too much and the rubber will start to slide and slip around. Once you have spread the glue, pull the rubber
over evenly to cover the area, and then repeat this until you have reached the end of the
roof. With an apex roof, it’s easier if you pull
the glue up the roof with the roller to prevent it being pushed towards the edge. Make sure to roll over the top edge of the
apex just incase the is a gap between the panels, to ensure that the roofing is well
sealed. With one half of the roof finished, you then
need to use a brush or broom to sweep the rubber down towards the edges, removing bubbles
and wrinkles. You can then pull the rubber back to expose
the other half of the roof and repeat the process. The glue dries tacky and stays pliable. As the glue dries into the wood, the dubber
will be drawn down, forming a seal. Measure the width of your roof with a tape
measure, this will allow you to cut down he plastic capping or timber to your required
length. First we are going to look at the plastic
trims and capping for a sleek, modern look. Measure out the trim to half the width of
your building, reducing the size by roughly 3 to 4 millimeters. This allows an expansion gap for changes in
temperature. Cut it down with a hand saw and repeat on
a second peice of trim. Use the machined edge for the centre join
as the rough sawn edge will be covered by the corner pieces. Align your first trim against the front edge
of your building, flush to one side. It should fit neatly against the existing drip trim
underneath. Make sure to lower the trim slightly from
the top lip of the roof to create an effective water runoff. Pin it through the pre-drilled holes and into
the batons behind. When tacking the end of the trim, move and
pins length in from the end, lining up with the others and hammer firmly through the plastic. When you attach the other side, make sure
that it is flush with the edge, this will leave a slight gap in the middle of the two
pieces, this is your expansion gap. In order to fit the corner caps, fold the
rubber as shown and pin into place for a neat edge. Do this for all 4 corners. You can now start to trim away the excess
rubber from underneath the front and back of the building. Using a sharp blade, pull the rubber back
on itself, not down, to smoothly trim along the edge. This movement prevents a ragged edge and allows
the rubber to shrink back under the drip trims. When you get to the central join, be careful
not to snag the sheeting, making sure to pull away from the edge before continuing with
the rest of the roof. For the corner pieces, align the edge of the
side fascia with the end of the roof. Not quite flush, but certainly not protruding. Pin in place through the plastic into the
wooden baton underneath and repeat up the roof. The corner caps have small seals which are
designed to be snapped out, depending on the corner you are working on, in order to fit
over the fascia. These do not feature pre drilled holes, simply
pin through the plastic with a hammer on both sides. Repeat this around all edges of your building
to complete the installation, making sure to trim the rubber after you have applied
the drip trims and fascias. An alternative method of installing the rubbercover
roofing is by using timber batons and fascias, using the rubber itself as it’s own drip trim. Begin by folding the rubber under the edge
of the roof and placing wooden batons roughly one inch in from the edge. This will allow any rainwater to drip from
the rubber instead of damaging the wood. Screw up through the batons into the roof
boards to secure the batons across the entire length of the building. As with the plastic stripping , you will want
to leave a small expansion gap for the timbers to move throughout the year. You should secure the batons at roughly 12
inch intervals. Once fitted, you can now go along the back
edge of the timbers with a sharp knife, to trim away the excess rubber, again remembering
to pull away from the blade and not directly down to prevent any snagging. The side fascias work in a similar manner
to the plastic drip trim, in that they sandwich the rubber between two sets of fascias to
protect the roof timbers and create a flat working edge. This does mean that you will require extra
boards from those supplied within a standard log cabin kit. Fold back the rubber from the edge fo the
roof so you can affix your first set of fascias in place. Screw into the roof logs, ensuring
that they are countersunk for a flat finish. You can then fold the rubber down over the
boards, trimming the ends so that the rubber fits neatly under the second fascia. You will also need to create a small fold
at the apex to prevent the rubber from wrinkling. Attach you second fascia boards as before,
sandwiching the rubber in between. The excess rubber can then be trimmed off
using a sharp knife as before. Making sure to firmly pull away from the blade to prevent
any snagging. Repeat this on the other side of the building
to complete the install. If you have a building with roof corners,
you will need to cut and join two pieces of the EPDM roofing. This next section illustrates how to do this,
and keep your roof waterproof. Begin by gluing down your rubber pieces, ensuring
that they only go up to the corner joint and do not overlap. When you press the rubber down, sweep across
it to remove any trapped air. The glue stays pliable, allowing you to reposition
the rubber slightly if needed. If the glue dries too quickly it can cause
the air to become trapped, resulting in bubbles. The rubber itself will expand and contract
seasonally, and can result in some wrinkling during periods of hot weather, however this
is natural and a result of the rubber finding its own expansion point. This will not effect all roofs however. When joining two pieces of rubber together,
you want to prevent puckering and keep all of the lines clean. Trim down the edge of the rubber with a stanley
knife or similar blade to remove any excess. Lay your cover tape over the join without
removing either of the backing tapes. Ensure that it is central and mark down edges
on to the rubber. This will give you a boarder for spreading the adhesive primer. It is important to be accurate with your lines
as this will act as the seal to prevent water ingress. As it is a primer and not a glue, you do not
need to rush to get the tape down, so take your time. Particularly if you are doing multiple
corners at once. Begin to remove the backing paper from the
tape, a small section at a time. Making sure to line it up straight with the lines. Use a seam roller to firmly press the tape
down across the length of the join. If any air has become trapped under the tape you
can use the roller to work any bubbles to the edge. The joint is now water tight, however could
be removed if needed. Given curing time of a couple of weeks, this will not be possible. Thank you for taking the time to watch our
guide on installing EPDM rubbercover roofing kits. For more information on this long lasting
roofing alternative, simply visit

Comments (2)

  1. Very interesting an informative vid..

  2. An excellent video.

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