Shortleaf pine, air dried one year Wedging the Nuki beams tightly. These provide the buildings lateral bracing and give a place to attach walls. Reading the knots is an easy way to see where the top of the tree was. Note the diagonal knots, all pointing up from the tree’s heart. In this method we nail battens between wide boards. Leaving wide boards free to move as much as possible. Cutting a notch out for the passage of a wedge beside the door frame. This saw only needed one sharpening for all this siding. Im always checking each board, looking for the natural orientation. Where was the top of the tree? Where was the outside? We always try and put the wood to use in the same natural way it grew. So roots down, bark out, just as a tree grows. Placing the boards as they grew we use their natural tendency to cup outward to our advantage, they push against the battens, holding themselves on the wall. Against the post, you could add another batten, or just one nail to hold that side of the board down. One nail should still allow movement. The bottom half of the walls are most likely to see weather, so that’s where they are charred the most. One third of each, pine tar, turpentine, and a drying oil, this time Canola, but tung oil, linseed or any would work. A good soaking every few years These old stainless pump sprayers are the easiest way to apply oil finish. Seal your stones while your at it! Also great for metal roofing.