Installing Hardwood Floors on Concrete

Installing Hardwood Floors on Concrete

It’s great to see so much natural timber coming
out from under the rug. Literally thousands of people are ripping
up there carpets to reveal beautiful natural timber floor boards. Da daaaaaaaaaaaaa Oh, it’s concrete. I knew that. But it’s ok because we are going to show you
how to lay a beautiful natural timber floor on this concrete pad. We are going to lay the floor using the direct
stick method. Which actually means we are going to glue
it and nail it to the concrete pad. Before you begin, your timber floor supplier
should be able to check moisture levels in the slab to make sure it’s dry enough. There is a large range of colours, grains
and varieties of solid timber floors available. The one we have chosen is this light coloured
oak, it’s going to work really well with the colours we are going to paint the walls. It’s 80mm wide and 12mm thick. We start by marking and checking out the door
frame so that the end bead fits neatly underneath. We are going to lay the boards this way, always
start with your longest run. Now the timber is cut to size, the fitting
of the first plank is very important. It’s gotta be in exactly the right place. To allow for a 10mm expansion gap down this
side we have marked the wall an extra 10mm out here. Using polyurethane adhesive, we glue and nail
one end of the first board. This must be set absolutely straight, as it
is a guide for the rest of the floor. So the very next job in getting this first
board absolutely true is to run a string line so we can fix this. Just pull it tight Dene. Oh and have you got the pencil and ruler.. Thanks… Using the string line as a guide, nail and
paint the first board. The glue is then evenly spread onto the floor
and we can start to lay the timber. Well the glue is spread nice and consistently. It’s very important because if you don’t get
that bit right, you get lumps and bumps. We have measured and allowed enough glue for
10 boards. We are going to put those in and then we are
going to clamp it. Now at this point, once our first 10 boards
are down we clamp using these clamps which you can hire from the retailer. Just to close all these gaps up and then we
fix and nail the first board or the last board down to hold it all in place. Then we remove the clamps and continue on
our way. When you clamping it you make sure that you
use an off cut as a block, just to protect the tongue on the side of the timber there. Once clamped, we check for raised for raised
or drummy stops. We then drill and nail to fix. You right on the end? Yep? We then continue laying the boards which we
have cut at random to create a staggered pattern. Well that’s great we are getting there. Looks good. Very good. Well it’s looking great so far, we have almost
come to the end of the laying. The next bit is the sanding and we’re not
going to do that are we. No I think that calls for an expert. Our expert floor sander uses this vast array
of specialist equipment to produce a brilliant finish on our timber floor. There are 16 separate steps in the process. He starts with a fairly course paper and then
sands both across the boards diagonally, and then along the grain to ensure a dead flat
surface. Corners are hand levelled and sanded to ensure
an even professional result. Any imperfections or nail holes are hand filled
and sanded. The grade of papers are then reduced over
separate sanding, finishing with a buffing mat or disc. He then applies the finish over 3 separate
coatings. And we end up with a superb job on our beautiful
solid timber floor. Well, we did it. Yeah apart from the sanding. As you have seen sanding can be a little bit
tricky. I agree, sanding and polishing is defiantly
a job for the experts. But it looks great. It looks fantastic.

Comments (50)

  1. Fucking nice looking floor

  2. while I realise that laying (gluing) solid boards direct to concrete is not as ideal as nailing and gluing to a timber substrate I have a small section of suspended concrete slab which was put in as part of an extension to the house and at the same level with the old timber floor over which I am gluing and nailing a new floor –  I'd like to look into and try this method to avoid securing a timber substrate to the concrete and therefore a raised step – what is the type of glue which is required?

  3. I was looking to learn how the best way is to fit the guards around the perimeter of the walls – the guards that mask the floor boards mating to the wall surface.

  4. What is the point of leaving a 10mm expansion gap between the first board and the wall when you nail the first row down into concrete?

  5. Bulk and skull have done well for themselves, now the power rangers have retired

  6. So professional I love it

  7. You can install solid wood boards that come complete with professional finishes these days, no need for all this bullshit.

  8. This is the old school way of installing hardwood floors. Nobody does solid hardwood on concrete anymore, instead add a subfloor then solid hardwood floor. You can get away with doing that with "engineered hardwood floor" directly on concrete though.

  9. How far apart you nail the first board?

  10. Warning! Do not install hardwood floors in your basement, even on top of a subfloor. The moisture levels are two great during the summer months and even engineered hardwood flooring will look like garbage just a couple years. What they are doing here can be done on top of concrete as long as it's not in the basement or bottom level of the building. This is a common practice in condos because the concrete floor is far above the lower level of the structure, avoiding moisture issues.

  11. which glue would you recommend that is moisture proof on concrete?

  12. Can you guys please do my floor in the Hunter Valley?

  13. Dude, paint the walls FIRST!! then put in the flooring… Duh

  14. I heard that munchkins like timber.

  15. The biggest value for a concrete basement is ceramic tile.

  16. So how do I locate gas and heating pipes first?

  17. I recon it's only 100 bucks/sqm in total.

  18. bollocks!! How many regular household will be able to have such a professional job to be done? get real mate, this is not good for every one!!!

  19. verry good sir

  20. Looks like they're just nailing regular galvanized finish nails into the concrete? Anybody ever tried that? Success? I'd like to do exactly that if it works…

  21. What type of glue did you use??

  22. Does anyone know if they've used concrete nails in the pre drilled holes?

  23. whats up with the floor sanders swag? sanding in shorts, brown ankle high strap mini boots ,with blue dress socks lol

  24. eh? left any space for expansion ?

  25. Installing hardwood directly over concrete is a bad idea. Concrete can change moisture levels without notice and transfer that moisture to your wood floors.The result is not pretty.

  26. first where is the vapor barrier and why nail the first rung.

  27. wtf is this? lol

  28. hehe u guys look like penn and teller

  29. On concrete, the hardwood flooring is hard to install. I've seen when I was doing that in my house. You explained it really well. If you are looking to buy hardwood flooring which is best in market, here is the link:

  30. Have moisture levels checked in summer months. It's risky placing incurred wood on concrete. Unless, your looking for the black mold rot look.

  31. where can i buy those yellow CLAMPS look on internet and could not find them. Thanks Johnnie

  32. Channel is called DIY. ~"lets call the experts"

  33. That concrete is on the earth? I call bs on this technique.

  34. Why so unhappy about that pencil and ruler at 2:04?

  35. mario and luigi 👌lol

  36. Where's the membrane? Why nail the 1st board to the floor? Cowboys.

  37. I thought these two guys were the Chuckle Brothers when I saw the thumbnail for this video.

  38. I get a similar job, may I have your contact ?

  39. The finished floor looks very nice but, you should NEVER put real wood in direct contact with concrete without putting some type of underlayment and/or vapor barrier down first, EVER!

    Concrete is porous and moisture/water vapor is constantly moving from moist to dry areas. Also, the ground water table does fluctuate when we have extreme periods of rain and/or dry, arid conditions.

    Personally, I would not put solid wood flooring in a basement even with a good underlayment because basements are just to damp. Wood, as with any organic material will hold moisture over time which leads to rot, mold and odors. If you're going to spend that kind of money, do it right.

    In addition, I don't use wood timbers that come in contact wirh the bare concrete floor to stud walls. I like to use galvanized steel so we have no rusting issues either. I know, some people use pressure treated lumber where it comes in contact with the floor. I guess if you have too, then you have too. It's certainly better than using plain, untreated lumbet.

    I have heard of some contractors using a composite type lumber directly onto the concrete floor. It's made from the same material that composite wood decking lumber is made from. According to the manufacturer, this material can be installed and submerged into the ground and even in standing water and it will not rot. One manufacturer even goes as far as to give a lifetime warranty wirh the product against rot, mold and decay. Can't beat that! It is however, a little expensive to go this route.

  40. Fucking TV show idiots!..solid hardwood glued to concrete…never!!

  41. Solid boards should always be fixed to timber battens.

  42. Perfect demo on exactly what never to do. Come on guys, be better

  43. What the heck? I get it with some specialized glues that act as a water barrier you can get away with direct to concrete installations but man drilling down nailing straight through that is just hack job

  44. The failure rate is north of 70% when installing real 100% hardwood flooring on concrete. Always use ENGINEERED hardwood as it's the only hardwood that will stand the test of time.

  45. Did he just drill through a pipe in the floor? 0.43

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