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How to Replace a Basement Window in Concrete

How to Replace a Basement Window in Concrete


This is a video on how to replace
a basement window in a concrete wall. The window in our video is a jalousie, or louver, window that we want to replace in order to better insulate the basement. We’re going to remove the entire window, including the frame, and replace it with an Andersen Silverline sliding window. The first thing you need to do is remove the guts of your window—either the window sash if you’re replacing a hopper, awning or sliding window, or the louvers if you’re
replacing a jalousie window, like we are. We’re going to just carefully remove the glass slats from their frame. Make sure to handle the louvers or sash carefully. We want to have only the basic window frame remaining. Once you’ve removed the innards of the window,
it’s time to attack the frame. The goal here is to get down to the rough opening in the concrete. Take a reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade and make a deep cut in the middle of the bottom of the frame. This will weaken the strength of the frame and allow you to wedge a pry bar in between the concrete and the aluminum or steel frame. Work on one side of the frame at a time—using the pry bar to get
a grip on the frame and carefully wedge it out of the rough opening. If your frame is made of steel, you will most likely have to make
a cut with the reciprocating saw on every side of the frame; if it is aluminum, like ours, you will probably only have to
saw the bottom, because aluminum is much softer than steel. Once you get the window frame out, you’re left
with the rough opening in the concrete. You need to have the dimensions of this
opening to order your replacement windows. At this point, if you don’t have your new windows ordered, cut a piece of
plywood to fill in the hole until your new window comes in. Even with the correct measurements, you may need to alter the rough
opening slightly to make sure it is square and level. For example, we had to hammer down an uneven ridge
on the bottom edge of our rough opening. The modifications you need to make, if any, will depend on your exact situation and
how close a fit your window is to the rough opening. Stick the window in the rough opening, making sure to
install it right side in and right side up. Remove the sashes and screen from the window so
you can access the screw holes. Secure the window in place by installing double-threaded concrete screws
along the sides and top of the window. Install the screw cover plugs if they come with your replacement window. Fit the sashes and screen back into the window. Caulk the inside gap between the cement and the window. From the outside, fill in the gap between the
window and the cement with spray foam. Depending on how your window fits inside the wall, the pre-existing strip
of solid foam on the edge of the replacement window may be exposed to the outside elements. We tore this off before
applying our spray foam to ensure a tighter insulated seal. Thanks for watching our video. For more information, please visit our website at www.allaboutdoors.com

Comments (43)

  1. Great video thanks

  2. I've been finding a great tutorial on installing basement windows and this is perfect! Super simple and straight forward. I dont feel near as intimidated as before

  3. You should be using portland or mortar on the exterior of the window edges, not spray foam for a more finished look.

  4. This was very helpful.  Thanks!

  5. omg wtf is wrong with her voice!!

  6. Very good and helpful. Thanks.

  7. what if the frames are cemented in ?

  8. Really?  I would seal up the OUTSIDE and insulate from the INSIDE.  Exposed spray foam is a big no no (not to mention it looks like crap)

  9. Informative but I can't believe these guys are removing cut aluminum without gloves, hammering cement without a dust mask, and smearing caulk with their fingers. Talk about accidents waiting to happen.

  10. the spray foam job makes it look like shit

  11. DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THIS VIDEO.  I have a lot of problems with this video.  A professional contractor (like me) would never do this.  Use gloves, wear a mask when busting up concrete.  Safety comes first.  Then you are supposed to wet it down with siloxane sealer so the concrete is sealed.  Depending on the size of the frame and type of window, we would install PT lumber on the bottom at a minimum.  Perhaps the sides as well.  Shim in place, then drill through our wood and into concrete so we could prepare for tapcons or some type of masonry fastener.  We would seal up the outside with Butyl caulk, mortar, or whatever to be sure it is sealed and matches the finish on the outside.  We sometimes use silicone, but it fails over time.  I don't really like silicone because of this.  We would foam the edges with window spray foam very carefully from the inside.  If any over expanded, then we would trim it off neatly.  Usually we don't overfill it.  We can use acrylic caulk or some sort of paintable sealant on the inside before we apply our trim.  It looks very nice afterwards, and it is properly sealed for a long time.  Do not follow the instructions from this video because it is wrong.

  12. Show us the narrator's face…

  13. First off the gap around the window should never be sprayed with foam. When the foam dries it will expands which can cause the window frame to bow not allowing the window to open and close correctly. Always fill you gaps with insulation and use a putty knife of some kind to push insulation around the window. Be careful not to overfill the gaps as again it can cause the window frame to bow. Put in enough to insulate and stop any draft then calk and put your window casing around window if desired. Outside the home finish the exterior with aluminum wrap and calk.

  14. Thanks for this helpful demonstration and explanation!

  15. The narrator was very hard to understand.

  16. Tank you bery much.

  17. Serious question, do you not need to install some sort of lintel to replace the metal frame of the old window? The old steel box frame is not weight bearing?

  18. Sufferin Succotash , you're spitting all over the window. Do you have a rezipperating saw I can borrow

  19. Ashoominum is much softer than shteel.

  20. Do you have a brother named Sloth. He was in the movie The Goonies

  21. Hey after you fix that window why don't you dig up that plastic garbage bag that's in the soil and chew on it

  22. Inshtall skroows on da Shide an Pot of da window . Then use some Cock

  23. Shouldnt the spray foam go in the inside and caulking outside??

  24. Hi can you tell me how to remove limestone ledge? from under Windows that go all the way around the house. We have aluminum siding and have the Windows then under the Windows is a limestone ledge then under that is brick wall.
    Any tips tricks or certain tools to use any videos on this you could recommend. Thank you. We want to remove the limestone ledge but be able to put them back on after insulation is put in the walls of the house.

  25. Very useful, thank you! Refreshing to see a video that corresponds to the title. I'm so tired of videos that spend most of the time explaining common sense safety points and very little of the technique. 'All About Door and Windows', you did good, and as for all you whiners out there, if you don't know you need to protect yourself when you work, you should not be doing this or cutting meat in the kitchen either.

  26. Good video, minus you're annunciation

  27. bad video…dont.pay attention to this video at all

  28. Take that shit out your mouth.

  29. Clearly professional job

  30. Please, please do NOT use this as a guide for window install!!!! SOOOO many things wrong with this it's hard to even know where to start. No seal on the outside?? Do you not have any kind of moisture there, let alone actual rain? There are better options than foam in the interior, and it has absolutely no place on the exterior.

  31. Thanks but why are you talking like your sleep deprived and why do all your words end in some kind of unintelligible gurgle ??

  32. been their done that, thanks.

  33. No gloves! Yikes!

  34. Excellent. Thanks!!!

  35. I cant understand anything

  36. Sufferin succotash

  37. This bitches voice has me fucked up

  38. Holy lisp Batman. Get a better narrator

  39. WTF no waterproofing, no flashing, no moisture barrier, nothing?! Just a quick squirt of silicone and foam???!?!?!?

    This doesn't pass any code anywhere on the planet.

  40. That will leak. The window should be installed from the OUTSIDE. The flange should be outside the lip of the concrete. The spray foam is sprayed from the Inside.

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