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How To Build A Stud Wall – DIY At Bunnings

How To Build A Stud Wall – DIY At Bunnings


I’m going to show you how to install a stud
wall in situ, which means we are actually going to be building this stud wall in the
location here. Some of the equipment we will be using will be a tape measure, pencil, a
square. I’ve got a hand saw, a cordless circular saw, hammer, nails. I’ve got sawhorses spirit
level, step ladder for when I’m working up a bit higher and, of course, I’ve got my PPE
which is ear protection, eye protection and I’ve got a pair of gloves. And the other thing
I’ve got is a power nailer. This is a great bit of kit because you can’t hold a piece
of timber, hold a nail and swing a hammer at the same time, so a power nailer does come
in handy. Our first step is to set the bottom plate, which is the timber that goes actually
on the bottom. So you are going from the existing bottom plate of that wall over there, to the
same one over here. I transfer that measurement to my bit of timber. And now I’ll cut that
to length. So now because I’ve just cut that bit of timber,
it’s a bit ragged on the end. A pair of gloves, don’t want to get any splinters. So just to
make sure that the wall I’m putting in is in line with the existing wall, we just use
a nice long spirit level. I know that it’s straight. Putting that hard up against the
bottom plate of the existing wall, and I’ll just scribe a line on our new flooring all
the way up to the other end. So that’s where our bottom plate will go. And now we just
tap that in first. And now I’ll nail it in. So you’ll notice I’m not putting the nails
in straight. I’m actually putting them in at a bit of an angle. It’s called skew nailing.
So it will hold the timber down a lot better than just putting the nails straight in. Okay, I’ve only just put one nail down at
the end of this bottom plate because I will be cutting this out later on when I want to
put the door in, so just one nail in there to secure it. Plenty of nails down this end.
Next step is to put our top plate on. Now what I also need to do here is make sure that
I’ve got a nice vertical line from my new bottom plate straight up to this wall. So
I’ll just mark my line up here. Great idea when you’re working alone, I’m going to put
a block of timber up here to help me hold up my top plate. I’m using the nail gun, safety
gear. Easy as that. Okay, we’ll put the top plate up. Our next step is to put our vertical
studs in. Because we’re putting in a door on this side, I need to take into account
the space I need here for the door jam itself, and also we need a little bit of material
here so we can put an architrave in later. So what I’m gonna do is actually put two studs
on this wall. That will give me plenty of room for my architrave and my door jam. Very good, so that’s now ready to be nailed
into our noggins just here. I’m also going to add another bit of material just at the
top as a bit more strength. Because I’m putting a little block of timber in there, this is
where hanging onto your off-cuts comes in really handy. And as I said before, because
we need to take into account that extra bit of space for an architrave and the door jam,
I’m now going to cut a second stud, which I will sandwich up against that one. I’m going
to remeasure because you can’t guarantee that the top plate is exactly horizontal because
it’s a bit of an old house. So we will actually measure each one individually. As you can
see, I’ve now put this stud in and I’ve also used my little blocks as a helper because
this stud is where the hinges are going to go. We also need to nail only from this side
because also we are going to cut that section of the bottom plate out. If we nailed from
the other side, we would end up having to cut through the nails. So in this particular part at the bottom nail
from this side into the wall cavity. That’s that vertical studding. We just need to put
another one in. A guideline is 450 mm between the center of one stud and the center of the
next stud. Luckily for us, we have a 900 mm gap. So we will just split the difference
there. I will measure and find the center of my top plate, same with my bottom plate.
Measure the heart of my stud and cut and fit it. Next step in the process is to put our
noggins which are the horizontal pieces, which will brace up the whole wall. A guideline
is 1200 mm apart, so generally that would mean one in the middle of each wall. I’m going
to put two in the middle of each wall just to give it a bit of extra strength. So I’ll
measure those up, cut them and install those as well now. Next step in the process is to put our header.
We need to take into account the height of the door, the thickness of the door jam, which
we are running across the top and also the overall thickness of whatever flooring you’re
putting in there. So you need to take all that into account. I have done that and made
my measurements for both sides. I’ve cut the bit of timber and now I’ll put that in. The
last step is to cut out our section of the bottom plate where the door will actually
be swinging through. So that’s just done with a hand saw, a little bit of elbow grease.
The only thing left is to remove my two little blocks that I used to assist me before and
we’re done. Done and dusted. Stud wall in situ.

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