How To Add Cabinet/Wall Blocking To Stud Walls, Kitchen Cabinet Installation

How To Add Cabinet/Wall Blocking To Stud Walls, Kitchen Cabinet Installation

– [Jeff] Hi, everybody! Jeff here again. Today, I’m gonna show you about blocking. This is called wall blocking. Some people call it cabinet blocking and this is why I always
tell you it’s a great idea if you can have all of your dry wall down and exposed down to the studs whenever you’re doing a remodel coz then, you can see
exactly what’s going on and you can also make a
much better preparation than even the builder did. So this wall here was actually rebuilt, this whole stud wall on the kitchen here and blocking involves using
blocks of wood like this to put across the studs
at the approximate height where the top of the
counter is going to be. So for example, if you look
at our base counters here, you see that right there? So right along the top edge
of those counters there, those base cabinets,
those are about 34 inches. That’s pretty standard across
most of the base cabinets and so what you wanna do
is you wanna have a line at around 34 inches or
so that goes across there and you can put these blocks of wood. So there’ll be one here, one here, straight line all the way across. That way, you don’t have to worry about screwing through the back of the cabinet and trying to hit a stud,
trying to find a stud or missing it or whatever. That’s what a lot of
people do and usually, for most people, it ends up
being a lesson in futility. That’s what some of the old
school craftsmen used to do but when you put one of these in here, the great thing about
it is it doesn’t matter where you screw through
the back of your cabinet, you’re always guaranteed
to hit wood no matter what. You’re gonna hit the wood here. Now if you look at the wood here, you’ll see, I like to use
a two by six for this. Assuming this is the
top of your base cabinet will line up to this, of course,
there’ll be dry wall there. You won’t be able to see
it but you just have faith and you know that when you screw through the top of your cabinet there, you’ll be able to hit this wood so there’s a cross brace on
the back of every base cabinet and that cross brace is usually
about four inches or so. So it will be, if you could
see an imaginary line, it would be along the board like this and the reason why I’d leave this overhang is it just gives you more margin of error. Alright, so we’re going to
toenail in this end here. Shoot the nail up at an angle and we do the other side here. (tapping) You always wanna make sure
those planks are flushed with the front end of the studs so the dry wall won’t bump out on you. Now this one, we’re gonna
shoot in from the other side. (drill revving) Remember, these are two by sixes so we’re always going to put
in three screws, three nails. (drill revving) There we go. (drill revving) (drill revving) There we go. (drill revving) Alright, so here we are looking
at the finished wall here with all of our cabinet blocks in place for the upper and the lower cabinets. Let’s review what we’ve done here. You can see, we have a
whole line of them here going across here. These are for the bottom,
for the base cabinets and as you could see
here in our picture here, that corresponds to here. So we made it align go
all the way over here and stop just before where
the refrigerator goes because you don’t need anything
behind the refrigerator. So now that we’ve done those here, one thing to look at too is now, you have the upper cabinets to deal with as we’ve pointed out before, see? So you need a line to go behind the bottom of the upper cabinets and behind the bottom
of these upper cabinets which are shorter because
they go over the sink and then you need a line to go across the top of the cabinets wherever they’re gonna mount and according to our drawing here, these are mounting at 96
inches above the floor so you could see what we’ve done is we went over the 96
inches above the floor here. You could see where we marked it there and that line up there is the upper border of our upper cabinets. So we come down from that mark. So we made those go all the way across because every upper cabinet needs to have a plank there behind the top and then in the middle cabinet here, this is where the middle cabinet
is that goes over the sink. Now, these are overlapping because they have to go between studs so what’s gonna happen here is you’re gonna have a left cabinet that’s 24 inches here that will end probably somewhere right there and then the upper cabinet will start here and go over to right over to here so that’s why we have to have
it span across three studs even though we’re only
using 30 inches wide out of all of that and then,
you may have noticed here that we have this big old
five-inch plumbing stack here. Going here, that’s the pipe
that the plumbers put in and it spans all the way up to the ceiling and it goes up to the
roof and that’s how you put your behind water for your plumbing but the problem here is
because that is so big and even though we went
real wide on these studs, these are two by eight studs. It may not look like it on the video but these are eight-inch studs that actually measure at
about seven and a quarter so it doesn’t leave you enough room here to put the same width of
two by that we put here. We got to use a one by
here to get past this pipe. So what we’re doing here is you can see, we used a regular block. We put a block here and
then we use a one by here to attach to the block and then if you look real closely here, you’ll see we toe-nailed the screw in. So what we do is we take our drill, we pile that hole in
an angle right through to this stud here and then you
run your deck screw in there and deck screw has always
been my preferred method and the reason is that sometimes, we end up with pieces of wood like this that are pressure treated. Pressure treated wood
has all sorts of acids and chemicals and whatnot that
will eventually eat through, corrode your regular screws
if you use an untreated screw. So we prefer to use deck screws here whenever we’re going into this wood and I just use them anyway
just coz I never know what kind of wood I’m
gonna be going through here and you can see through all
of the other spots on here, we just toe-nailed them in from the top. Some of these, you can get lucky on and you can get in on the
right side and the left side and then the neighbor
one you toed in here, see, so here’s a toe in. Okay, so now I wanna
show you something here because there’s a safety precaution here. I’ve got these metal plates here and we’re gonna be screwing
these on the back of these one bys here in front of this pipe so that somebody doesn’t come along later and accidentally screw
through and pierce the pipe. That would be really bad, especially if it was a actual
water plumbing pipe, right? At this point here upward,
it’s really only just fumes from the sewer system but
if it was an actual pipe, like a water pipe, you’d be in trouble or what if it was an electrical cable? And so we’re gonna put these plates here and also, when we install the dry wall, we’re gonna mark on the drywall the width of where this pipe is and we’re just gonna have
a big note that says, hey pipe and we’ll say, do not use a screw longer
than whatever length. Well, how long are the
screw should you use? The cabinet is gonna be maybe a half inch to a half inch thick. Then you’re gonna have
a half inch of drywall and then you have this wood here which is probably almost an inch or so. So we’ll do a stack up once
we get the cabinets here and everything and we’ll
calculate ahead of time what’s the best size screw that we use so that we don’t even hit this plate. You don’t wanna hit this plate at all and that’s really only an
issue in this one spot. Everywhere else, you have
no problem whatsoever. You could see, you can go right through the plates there with
no problem and so again, by having all of these
horizontal components here, no matter where you
put your base cabinets, that back brace piece across
the back of your cabinet is gonna line up to the
top three inches or so of each one of these members so no matter where you put your screw, you’re not gonna miss. That’s the beauty of this and this is why you wanna have your walls wide open when you’re doing these kind of stuffs so you can see, we’ve got
nice blockage going here and the other thing too
that we’re going to add, you have to make sure you do this is these, see these block braces here? These are like these because
these act as your fire blocks so we’re probably gonna add
some right here and here and what that does is
everything that’s below, like the electricity is
mostly gonna be below. If you ever have a fire and that’s why you have these cavities in the wall here, if there’s ever a fire in the wall, all the heat and vapor and fumes and stuff will not go shooting straight
up to the attic immediately and going up and then causing a fire. Your whole house would burn down in a matter of five minutes. It would just spread rapidly. So this prevents like
a chimney effect here. It’s not an end-all,
it’s not 100% fire stop. What it does is everything
you do in the house to prevent fire just delays the time. It just gives you more time
to get out of the house. It gives the fire department
more time to get there to save the house. Here you have it here and please subscribe to our
channel if you like this video and we’ll be putting up a lot
more videos to help you out.

Comments (13)

  1. Plumbing won't pass code here in cal.  You must use ABS not PVC pipe.

  2. If you can't get the other side of the studs for edge nailing (like if you only access to one stud bay), would you recommend toe nailing the blocking on both sides? If so, would you toe nail on the top and bottom for both sides? That would get you 2 fasteners per side, not quite the 3 you recommended per side with edge nailing.

  3. We need to put in a wood backing like this for a new pedestal sink, but because of where the water lines are behind the wall, we only have enough depth to fit wood that is about 3/4 inch thick between the studs. The sink itself will be supported by the leg of pedestal, but still want the top mounted with wood backing. Would the 3/4 inch thick wood be enough thickness for support?

  4. I put mine in with a corner bracket on each end. Overkill but super sturdy.

  5. Extremely helpful! Thanks.

  6. Great video thanks for taking the time I'm gutting a kitchen down to the studs and wanted to install blocking for the cabinets the video was very clear on what to do good job

  7. N00b here….what kind of driver are you using for those screws? I need me one of those!

  8. damn that gun is slow…

  9. Beautiful… thanks, sir!

  10. Very helpful. Thanks for this!

  11. Stops at 00:21 won't play past that point.

  12. if new construction, do i have the framers add it in, or wait until after plumbers put their piping in so that the blocks aren’t interfering with their pipes???

  13. nice job but it doesn't look good for Dewalt. You could have all 3 nails in with an air nailer by the time that Dewalt cycled thu 1 shot.

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