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Frameless Shower Door Install – Knee-Wall / Buttress / Tub Deck Configuration | Illusion by Coastal

Frameless Shower Door Install – Knee-Wall / Buttress / Tub Deck Configuration | Illusion by Coastal


A paradigm shift in innovation and value,
Coastal’s Illusion series shower enclosure is a true “Value-Creator” for both pro’s and
diy’ers alike. Coastal’s Illusion series not only offers the luxuries of heavy all-glass
shower enclosures, it also provides the installer with a substantial amount of in-the-field
adjustability which dramatically reduces installation time and difficulty. Right out of the box,
the system is ready to be installed on any surface including fiberglass without a need
for increased support, backing, or bracing. In this installation walkthrough, we’ll look
at a standard tub deck or knee wall corner configuration. The door will be hinged at
the wall which normally will allow for easy and dry access to the shower controls. We’ll Start the installation process by un
boxing the unit and making certain that we have all the correct parts listed on the configurations
instruction manual. Take the first measurement at the curb between
the knee wall and full wall to obtain our base opening width. We’ll then cut the sill
1/16 less than measurement obtained and position our freshly cut sill on the curb at the centerline.
If you’re thinking the centerline is the center of the tiled threshold or shower pan, You’ll
want to check out Coastal’s measuring walk through. Next, we’ll temporarily tape sill
to the pan or curb.. Proceed by peeling back the tape on the un-mitered
edge of the vertical buttress sill. We’ll then insert the bare edge of the extrusion
into the aluminum sill. Obtain a second measurement at the top of
the knee wall top plate to the bottom end of the miter and remove this extrusion from
the threshold. Place a piece of tape on the aluminum to mark
the obtained measurement at the squared edge of the vertical buttress sill.
Use your chop-saw or hacksaw to make a cut at the mark
This application will require us to make a notch on the knee wall top plate so the vertical
buttress sill sits flush against the knee wall. Alternatively, the vertical buttress
sill could be notched instead. Next to secure extrusions to the tile, we’ll
need to make a mark 5-6 inches from the top and bottom of the vertical buttress sill.
After holes are appropriately marked, drill 3/16″ diameter holes into the inside of vertical
extrusions so that they align with the desired placement of hole to be drilled in wall. Temporarily
place the vertical buttress sill into the threshold. Ensure that the extrusion is plumb
on wall and mark hole location on tile or grout. Now that we’ve made our marks, remove
the vertical buttress sill and drill a 1 ½” deep hole at each mark using a 3/16″ masonry
bit. We’ll then place an anchor in each hole and temporarily secure the vertical buttress
sill to the wall. We’ll now secure the 1″ wall jamb to the full
wall opposite the knee wall. We’ll pull back a couple inches of tape from either end of
the extrusion and insert the un-taped end into the aluminum sill with the flat portion
of the wall jamb facing the wall. Use a level to plumb the jamb and temporarily tape the
extrusion to the wall. Mark your holes on wall using the three pre-drilled holes in
the jamb. Once you have all three of the 1 ½” holes drilled, we’ll insert our wall anchors
and fill the holes with silicone prior to mounting the jamb onto wall with 3 installation
screws. We’re now ready to begin dry fitting the enclosure
to ensure we have everything lined up correctly. Place two setting blocks into the aluminum
sill for the notched inline panel. Set your panel in place and insert into the vertical
buttress sill making sure that it’s firmly seated and resting atop the setting blocks.
Locate the small double mitered piece of aluminum that will be used as your buttress sill for
the notched section of the inline. make sure the double mitered buttress sill aligns with
the notch and vertical buttress sill’s mitered edge. The back miter should extend past the
inline panel glass 116 of an inch. From the outside edge of the kneewall, optain the measurement
to the longpoint of the butress sill’s back mitered edge. This measurement will determine
placement of the outer wall of the jamb for the return panel. · position plumb and secure
the wall jamb. Obtain the dimension between the outer edge of wall jamb to the longpoint
of the back mitered buttress sill and trim return sill accordingly and set in place.
Now we’ll go ahead and secure the wall jamb on top of the knee wall to the wall by and
drilling 2 – 3/16″ holes 5-6″ from top and bottom of the jamb and then plumb the jam
to the wall and mark the holes. Using your 3/16″ masonry bit drill the two holes at the
marked locations on the wall and insert your screw anchors and secure the jamb to the wall
using two of the installation screws. Now that we have everything cut to size we
can remove the notched inline panel and place it in a safe place.
And now that we’ve removed the notched glass we’ll also need to remove the vertical buttress
sill from the wall so that we can connect all 3 of the sill components using the appropriate
angled brackets. Make sure the mitered edges line up flush and tighten down on the set
screws using the alan key provided. Once the buttress sill is completely assembled, fill
the installation holes previously drilled into the knee wall with silicone and place
your connected buttress sill back in place and secure it back to the vertical section
of the knee wall using your two installation screws. Our framework is now secured and we’re ready
to install our glass panels. We’ll now run a clear bead of silicone along the inside
of our framework and begin setting the glass in place. The first piece to go in will be
the return panel and then’we’ll slide in the notched inline glass so that the inline glass
slides in front of the return panel and overlaps the entire thickness of the return panel use
the slip over clamp and firmly tighten down on the set screws. Once the inline panel has
been secured to the return panel, measure the door opening from the edge of wall jamb
to the edge of the the inline panel glass. Trim the dams strip to the measurement obtained
and snap in place. Attach the clear polycarbonate strike material to the glass and make sure
it’s firmly seated onto the glass. unwrap the door panel and slide the door’s hinge
assembly in place making sure that the legs of the extrusion are both on the inside of
the wall jamb.. Check that the door is aligned with inline panel at the top and that reveals
are evenly distributed. Telescope the hinge assemply in and out as needed. You may also
need to shim the panel glass with additional setting blocks in some circumstances. Once
you are happy with the alignment, secure the hinge assembly to the wall jamb using the
self tapping screws provided in hardware baggie. Attach the c-pull / or through glass handle
to the door. On the strike edge of the door glass center
and install the door strike vinyl. Place the door strike over the vinyl and tap it into
place. Carefully trim any excess vinyl as required. Insert trim sill vinyl into the vinyl strike
post. Then insert the magnet strip into the vinyl strike post. Next insert the remaining
vinyl sill and trim excess as required. With the wing of the drip rail positioned
toward the interior of the shower enclosure, insert the drip rail onto the bottom edge
of the door assembly. To ensure a leak proof installation, Run a
bead of clear, mildew resistant calk outside and vertical on the inside of butt glazed
panels. Painters tape can be used to keep the panels together until silicone caulk cures,
usually in 24 hours.

Comments (24)

  1. I like frameless shower doors

  2. @ Scott Marcum a Frameless shower door system has no frame around the door. the track around the perimeter of the shower is needed for support. anyone who trust silicone to hold a 100 lbs piece of glass is asking for trouble. you can get showers with smaller track but it is always a good idea to use something for support other than silicone.

  3. This is a kit shower. I have installed hundreds. Real frameless heavy glass custom showers are a whole different challenge.

  4. it's 2015 and frame less showers have been around for a while no track at all just hinges and clips

  5. This makes sense for a fiberglass shower enclosure as we have, but for ceramic showers like this I would have thought full frame-less. But looking at the thickness of the glass used, I see why a frame is necessary. I like this and would like to replace the gaudy big chrome framed enclosure we have with something a bit more sleek like this one.

  6. this what I do at my job for a living. this video will have you do Alot of extra stuff you don't need to do. Especially all that silicone he gone have Yall showers looking real sloppy lol

  7. This is not a true "frameless" enclosure! It is a "semi-frameless" … you have a full vertical metal extrusion running along the hinge side or wet wall that is attached to the door glass. Frameless means no metal around door at all… with minimal metals elsewhere (i.e. Fixed panel) to secure the rest of the enclosure. This is not a true representation of an frameless shower enclosure.

  8. Like others have stated, this is not a frameless shower. It's a SEMI-frameless kit. Possibly why the word "Illusion" is in the kit's name. On a side note, there should be no silicone easily visible in a properly installed enclosure (if one looks for it, they'll find it but the casual observer shouldn't see a bead on the outside). When using a frame channel like this kit, silicone the bottom of the channel before screwing it to the walls then clean up any "squish out".

  9. Like others have stated, this is not a frameless shower. It's a SEMI-frameless kit. Possibly why the word "Illusion" is in the kit's name. On a side note, there should be no silicone easily visible in a properly installed enclosure (if one looks for it, they'll find it but the casual observer shouldn't see a bead on the outside). When using a frame channel like this kit, silicone the bottom of the channel before screwing it to the walls then clean up any "squish out".

  10. What brand door is this? Seems to me to be a hybrid of semi-frameless and frameless. The Frameless doors I install use no threshold. We also use Clamps to hold all panels. Our doors use 2 or 3 wall hinges (or pivot hinges if required) depending upon height and thickness. Clean install you did though!

  11. I feel sorry for the dude he has to do a Lot of extra work for the shower enclosure. How is the door not a heavy. !!! That just ruined the whole shower!!! And it takes a base track instead of U-channel metal. Looks nice but just a horrible design!!! I'm from Arizona we do better work out here

  12. Nice job and presentation. My only PEEVE is seeing drills and parts on high shallow shelves like that.Especially over a fragile floor

  13. hi. do you know where i can find the setting blocks? Thanks

  14. Nice job . I really like it .

  15. Nice job . I really like it .

  16. 1. This is not a frameless shower.
    2. Hope you have 5 to 7 hours to spareto install it if you've never done one.
    3. They don't tell you if your walls or curls are out of plumb or level more than a 1/4" you'r screwed.
    4. Quit putting silicone in the channel. It is absolutely pointless.

  17. U-Channel sucks

  18. Hell I want this guy to do my bathrooms

  19. www.Lakeviewglassinc.com for frameless shower door ideas!

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